Ancona is the capital of the Marche region and one of the oldest ports on the Adriatic, yet most visitors to Italy have never heard of it. That is exactly its charm: a working harbor city with Greek and Roman roots, a cathedral on a hill above the sea, and some of the most beautiful beaches in central Italy within a short drive.
This guide covers where Ancona is, what to see, where to swim, what to eat and how to fit the city into a trip around Marche.
Where is Ancona, Italy?
Ancona sits on the Adriatic coast of central Italy, roughly halfway down the eastern side of the peninsula. It is the capital of the Marche region, which lies between Emilia-Romagna to the north, Umbria and Tuscany to the west, and Abruzzo to the south.
The city was founded by Greek settlers from Syracuse in the 4th century BC. Its name comes from the Greek word for elbow, a reference to the curved promontory that shelters the port.
What to see in Ancona
Cathedral of San Ciriaco
The Cattedrale di San Ciriaco stands on Colle Guasco, the hill above the old port. It mixes Romanesque and Byzantine styles, and the square in front of it has one of the best views in the city, over the harbor and the open sea.
Arch of Trajan
At the edge of the port stands the Arco di Traiano, a marble arch built in the 2nd century AD in honor of the Emperor Trajan, who expanded the harbor. It is one of the best-preserved Roman arches in Italy.
The Mole Vanvitelliana (Lazzaretto)
This pentagonal building on its own island in the harbor was designed by Luigi Vanvitelli in the 18th century as a quarantine station. Today it hosts exhibitions, concerts and summer events. Read our full guide to the Lazzaretto of Ancona.
Piazza del Plebiscito and the old town
Locals call it Piazza del Papa, after the statue of Pope Clement XII. Cafes, steps and churches make it the natural place to stop between the port and the upper town. Nearby, the National Archaeological Museum of the Marche tells the story of the region from prehistory to Roman times.
The Passetto
On the other side of the promontory, a monumental staircase beside the war memorial leads down to the Passetto, a rocky shore with small fishermen’s caves carved into the cliff. It is where Ancona goes to swim on summer afternoons.
Ancona beaches and the Conero Riviera
South of the city, the coast rises into Monte Conero, a limestone headland covered in Mediterranean woods. Here are some of the most beautiful beaches on the Adriatic: the bay of Portonovo, wild Mezzavalle, and further south the coves of Sirolo and the Due Sorelle beach, which can only be reached by sea.
See our detailed guide to Ancona beaches and our guide to Sirolo and Portonovo.
What to eat in Ancona
- Brodetto all’anconetana: the city’s fish stew, made with many varieties of Adriatic fish.
- Stoccafisso all’anconetana: dried cod slow-cooked with tomatoes, potatoes and olives, a local institution.
- Moscioli di Portonovo: wild mussels that grow on the rocks of the Conero coast, a Slow Food Presidium.
- Rosso Conero: the red wine of the hills around Monte Conero, made mainly from Montepulciano grapes.
How to get to Ancona
- By air: Ancona Falconara Airport is a short drive from the city center.
- By train: Ancona is on the Adriatic railway line, with direct trains along the coast and connections to Rome and Bologna.
- By sea: ferries connect Ancona with Croatia and Greece.
- By private driver: the easiest way to combine the city, the Conero coast and inland hill towns in one day. See our private chauffeur service.
How long to spend in Ancona
One full day is enough for the main sights of the city. Two or three days let you add a beach day at Portonovo or Sirolo and a boat trip along the Conero Riviera. Many of our guests use the Conero coast as their seaside base and explore inland Marche from there.
Ancona, Italy: frequently asked questions
Is Ancona worth visiting?
Yes, especially if you combine the city with the Conero Riviera. It is an authentic port city rather than a tourist town, with history, seafood and beautiful beaches close by.
Is Ancona a good base for exploring Marche?
It is a practical base thanks to the airport and railway. For a more relaxing stay, many travelers prefer the Conero coast, Portonovo or Sirolo, a short drive south.
When is the best time to visit Ancona?
Late May to September for the sea, and spring or autumn for city sightseeing and food.
Plan your trip to Ancona and Marche
We are a Marche-based tour operator and plan private, tailor-made trips with our own chauffeur. Explore our private Marche tours and book a free video call to start planning.
