Sirolo and Portonovo are the two jewels of the Conero Riviera, the stretch of Marche coast where Monte Conero drops into a clear, turquoise Adriatic. White pebble coves, a Romanesque church by the sea and beaches you can only reach by boat make this the most beautiful part of the coast of Marche.
This guide covers the best beaches, what to see, how to reach the Due Sorelle beach and where to eat.
Where are Sirolo and Portonovo?
Both lie on the Conero promontory just south of Ancona. Portonovo is a small bay within the municipality of Ancona, on the northern side of Monte Conero. Sirolo is a medieval village on the cliffs of the southern side, next to the harbor town of Numana. The whole area is protected as the Conero Regional Park.
Portonovo: what to see
Santa Maria di Portonovo
A small Romanesque church from the 11th century, built of pale stone among the trees just behind the beach. It is one of the most beautiful churches in Marche.
The Torre di Guardia and the Napoleonic fort
An 18th-century watchtower and a fort built in the Napoleonic era guard the bay. The fort is now a hotel.
The lakes and the beaches
Behind the shore are two small coastal lakes, and on either side of the bay are pebble beaches with beach clubs and restaurants. To the north, wild Mezzavalle beach is reached on foot by a path through the woods.
Moscioli
Portonovo is famous for its moscioli, wild mussels that grow on the rocks of the Conero coast and are protected as a Slow Food Presidium. Order them in the beach restaurants in season.
Sirolo: what to see
The village
Sirolo’s old center sits on the cliff edge, with a panoramic square, small lanes and a belvedere over the sea. In the evening it is one of the liveliest places on the coast.
Sirolo beaches
- Spiaggia Urbani: a crescent-shaped bay below the village, the most accessible of Sirolo’s beaches.
- San Michele and Sassi Neri: long beaches at the foot of the cliffs, reached on foot by a path from the village or by shuttle bus in summer.
- Spiaggia delle Due Sorelle: named after two rock stacks rising from the sea, this is the symbol of the Conero. It has no services and can be reached only by sea.
How to reach the Due Sorelle beach
The old footpath down to the beach is closed, so access is by sea: public boats run in season from the harbor of Numana, or you can arrive by private boat, kayak or SUP. In recent summers Sirolo has introduced a free booking system to limit numbers in peak season, so check the rules on the official Sirolo tourism website before you go. A private boat day is the most comfortable option and lets you see the whole coast, from Portonovo to Numana.
Where to stay
Sirolo and Numana are good bases for a beach holiday, while Portonovo is ideal for a quiet stay close to Ancona. Many guests combine a few nights here with a stay in the hills inland.
When to go
June and September are ideal: warm sea, open beach clubs and fewer people than in July and August, when beaches and roads get busy and booking ahead is essential.
Sirolo and Portonovo: frequently asked questions
Can you walk to the Due Sorelle beach?
No. The path is closed and access is by boat only.
Is Portonovo good for swimming?
Yes. The water is clear and deepens quickly; the beaches are pebble rather than sand, so water shoes are useful.
How far are Sirolo and Portonovo from Ancona?
Both are a short drive from the city of Ancona. Read our full Ancona guide and our guide to Ancona beaches.
Plan your trip to the Conero Riviera
We arrange private boat days, beach stays and chauffeured tours of the Conero coast. See our honeymoon packages and private Marche tours, and book a free video call.
